Don’t move to Ecuador before reading this: Moving to Ecuador 101

“Man, this dude is clueless!”

That’s a thought that often passes through my head as I meet new arrival expats in Ecuador.

But if I moved to a new country cold turkey, the same would happen to me.

When you are getting ready to move, one of the things that is likely on your “to do” list is to turn in a USPS Change of Address form to your post office.  This ensures that mail that is still addressed to your old address will be forwarded to your new one.  But people getting ready to move are very busy, and may not want the hassle of going to the post office to find the form and fill it out.  There is now good news for busy movers.  You can now fill out a USPS Change of Address online in as little as 2 minutes!

You could go to the USPS website to submit an online change of address.  But there is a hassle involved with that too.  The online form is hard to find on the site.  When you do find it, it is several pages long. Finally, you need to enter your credit card information to pay the charge. It is more of a hassle than it needs to be. Here is how you can usps change of address.

The good news is that there are now 3rd party sites that will submit your USPS Change of Address to the Postal service on your behalf for free.  There is a simple one page form that takes 2 minutes to fill out. You simply go to the site, fill out the form, and click “submit” and they will promptly and securely send the information to the Postal Service.  There is no searching to find the form, no credit card is required.  You will receive verification of your address change by email and by regular mail at your old and new addresses.

But after today’s primer you no longer can plead ignorance… here’s what you need to know before you go:

1. Handle your assets correctly.

Sell depreciating assets like cars, if you leave them whenever it is you try to sell them down the road they will be worth less, a lot less!  You have to consider how expensive it will be moving, since you’re likely going to use local movers to ship your house items across several countries. They are just chunks of metal.  Replaceable.  And DON’T liquidate ALL your assets and properties if they continue to make you money, what are you going to do with all that cash in Ecuador?  Lose it, that’s what.  Ecuador is a good place for you but maybe not for your entire savings.

2. Know what to bring.

According to the charts posted on directics.com/xilinx-fgpa, there’s a lot of things that are grossly more expensive in Ecuador than in countries like the US.  Bring all the electronics, brand name clothes and perfumes you are going to need.  Brand name shoes too.  Big screen TVs are also much cheaper in the US.

3. Know what NOT to bring.

There’s a lot of things you can easily buy in Ecuador for around the same price as in the US or cheaper.  Towels, sheets and things like irons, plates, kitchen utensils and Coffee machine for your kitchen can easily be found in your nearest SUPERMAXI or MI COMISARIATO (big box stores in Ecuador).  No need to bring!

4. Cell Phones.  

Before you leave the US be sure your expensive smart phone is UNLOCKED and accepts insertable SIM cards.  If it doesn’t or isn’t, than leave it in the US, cause it won’t be any use to you in Ecuador (which works on SIM cards).  I’d say even if it does accept SIM cards I’d still be weary about waving around one of those big fancy Samsung Galaxies or whatever, here in Ecuador, having a nice cell phone makes you a target for thieves.

It’s true, thieves will judge you based on your cell phone, if you maintain a cheapy ‘dumb’ phone you could live in Ecuador for years without anything happening to you.  I myslef have a simple ‘dumb’ phone (I know Ecuador too well to have anything else).

Once in country, to pick up a SIM card visit any CLARO or MOVISTAR store and ask if they have any SIMs for sale, its the same in Spanish.  Get a Claro SIM if you plan on living in Cuenca or the coast.  Movistar if you plan on living in the Quito/Cotacachi/Ibarra area.

The card costs $7, you insert it in your phone and you have an  instant Ecuador phone number you can add minutes to in any cell phone shop or pharmacy in Ecuador.  Many local street stores also offer the service of adding prepaid minutes (recargas).  To get a cheap phone starting around $40 try a mall in one of Ecuadors big cities before going to your final destination… in Guayaquil try the cell phone shops in the bus terminal, in Quito, Id go to EL ESPIRAL shopping center.  Don’t buy used phones off the street, they may be stolen.

5. Managing your currency.

News flash.. Ecuador uses the US dollar as the official currency.  But it can be very hard to make change in Ecuador, and most merchants simply won’t accept $50s and $100s, so dont bring any bills larger than $20s!  Travelers checks are a definite NO NO.  Bring an ATM card attached to the Cirrus network and you can withdraw from about any ATM from your US account.  For large transfers don’t try to bring it down in cash!  Instead, contact your bank in your home country and commence a wire once you have an account to wire to in Ecuador.

6. Opening a bank account.

Most banks in Ecuador won’t open an account for you unless you have a CEDULA and are a legal resident in Ecuador on a resident visa.  You could have a friend recommend you to his bank (which helps a lot in Ecuador), also try the smaller banks like Banco Promerica which seem t have more lenient policies about opening accounts.  Either way, dont have a lot of money in there, there are only 2 banks I’d trust in Ecuador, Banco Pichincha (the biggest bank in Ecuador and where most the locals have their money) or Banco Pacifico (already owned by the goverment).

7. Finding a place to stay the smart way (don’t make any prior reservations for rentals).

I’m weary about finding rentals online before I arrive in a place, because you really are clueless about the area, accept it. Visit https://www.foxremovals.com.au/ if you need to hire a company to help you with the moving process. I’ll never forget a few years back when I moved to Santo Domingo, in the Dominican Republic.  I arranged a rental online before arriving and it was right in the middle of the ghetto, literally on the wrong side of the river in the city.  And like most rentals I had already paid a non-refundable deposit plus the first months rent.  Dumb.

Not just for the price, but for a lot of reasons I recommend you do it the right way and stay in a cheapy hotel until you learn the area a bit and search on the ground for the rental that is really right for you.  You can often strike deals with many of the cheapy hotels in Ecuador to give you a weekly or monthly rate.

8. Getting connected to the internet.

In the big cities of Ecuador, getting connected in your home is easy, just go to your nearest CNT or Claro store and hire the service, within a few days they will be installing the internet in your home, doesn’t matter if you are a renter.  Decent plans start around $20 but if you want a faster interent experience pay for one of the plans around $50 a month.

In the small towns of Ecuador the internet is NOT a given so inquire beforehand!  If no internet options exist you can always get a Mobile WIFI HUAWEI stick you plug into the wall or your PC from a service provider like Movistar.  In that case, if there is cell phone coverage you can connect to the internet.  Plans start around $35 a month you can get unlimited internet, but this last option is by far the slowest (almost similar to dial-up).

9. Paying utility bills.

As a renter, you will most likely be required to pay your own electric, water and other bills.  The easiest way to pay them is go to the nearest SERVIPAGOS or WESTERN UNION office and pay them cash.  Some banks also offer the service, just be sure the bills dont expire or you’ll have to go directly to the provider to pay.

10. Learning Spanish on the cheap.

If you try to learn Spanish in the US or online before coming than you just wasting your time and money.  US universities will charge you thousands, private tutors in the US often cost upwards of $20 an hour and you’ll still forget everything they teach you cause you’re not using it.  Even programs like Rosetta Stone are not a good idea… in the US you probably paid $400 for it, in Ecuador you can find a copied version for $10.  Just sayin…
But I’d pass on all those programs!  Instead wait until you are in Ecuador to learn Spanish, and take a class from a local tutor , many would be happy to teach you one on one for around $5 an hour.  Once you got a hold on the grammar, try to read the paper everyday, once you got vocabulary, try to watch the TV everyday in Spanish for comprehension and try to make some local friends that only talk to you in Spanish.  Any age can learn cheaply following that method.

11. Visas.  

Have a clear idea of what type of resident visa you want before you come.  Ecuador is not a good place to simply border hop continually everytime your visa is about to expire like you can in Thailand or Costa Rica.  There is a limit.  Get a resident visa based on an investment, job, pension or on something more creative like a religious mission.  For any of the above visas bring the required docs with you from your home country… the base are 2 copies of an aposstilled birth certificate, marriage/divorce certificate (if applicable) and an aposstilled police record check.

12.  Getting around like a local.  

Don’t be afraid to take buses in Ecuador as a new arrival, they are plentiful and cheap and their destinations are marked on the front.

I remember as a new arrival in Spain with no Spanish skills I was afraid to get on the city bus to school cause I didn’t want to get lost with no Spanish skills, so I walked over 30 minutes to school and back everyday in the freezing cold Madrid winter.

Taxis are also cheap in Ecuador but ask how much they will charge to your destination before you get in.  Know that the drivers will always say they know where your destination is whether they really know or not, you have to learn to read their body language to see if they really know or not.  Ask locals how much a taxi ride should be before approaching a taxi.  Also, know that airport taxis are always more expensive and especially abusive so if you can get picked up or take a bus from the airport all the better.

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You’re fired! – What happens in Ecuador

“Hey, step into my office for a minute.”

“Don’t sit down, this will only take a second.” I continued.

“You’re fired, get the f**k out.”

OK, so this wasn’t exactly how it went down eariler this week.

But can’t blame a guy for dramatizing once in a while.

If you’ve met me, you know Im a soft-spoken guy, don’t think I could do it like that.

But due to a change in business circumstances, I unfortunately had to let someone go.

In Spanish, as in Ecuador, its very clear cut. Someone either quits (renunciar) or you fire them (despedir).

Theres no wishy washy middle ground like “laid off” or “let go”.

And when you have to let someone go, as I did this week, its a little different down here.

You have to “liquidate” them meaning pay them a final one-time “severance” payment equal to 25% of all the salary you’ve ever paid them plus any unpaid bonuses due to them.

But first, when you fire someone in Ecuador, or if someone leaves your business voluntarily, you have to go see an accountant who makes the official document (Acta de Finiquito) that needs to be filed with the Social Security Department (IESS) and Ministry of Labor (Ministerio de Trabajo).

Then, a date is scheduled when both you and your employee will have to go in front of an inspector where you will have to pay your employee their liquidation (severance) settlement and both sign off.

Theres really no way to get around this legal process nowadays in Ecuador or your employee can sue you.

Except if you hire the right way.

Which I didn’t this time around. In my case, for an employee I hired making a bit more than the minimum wage who worked for me for 3 months, Im going to have to pay her around $450 for her liquidation.

For instance, one loophole i recently discovered that will allow you to legally not pay the extremely costly 25% lump sum severance payment to your employees in Ecuador when you let them go is to hire your employees on a temporary limited time contract… say for one year.

At the end of the year you let them go for reasons of “contract ending” and then you don’t have to pay them the 25% lump sum liquidation of all the salary they’ve earned while under you. You will only have to pay a much smaller amount equal to any unpaid bonuses due to the employee for that year.

You can then do like most and maybe give them a few weeks off and then hire them back.

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Why dont I receive my mail from abroad in Ecuador?

Since moving to Ecuador, I´ve had quite a few things mailed to me from my original home, the USA.

Problem is… at first, the packages never got to me!

Online the tracking numbers indicated they had arrived to Ecuador. But they still never arrived at my home.

So what happened?

Finally, I figured it out.

Whenever someone mails you something from abroad using the general post, even if they mailed it to your exact street address in Ecuador, it doesn´t matter, it will most likely never make it there.

Instead.

Once you´ve verified the package is in Ecuador via a tracking number that is checkable online…

You have to go to the main office of the post in Ecuador (Correos Ecuador) in your city to pick it up. They may tell you that your package is in the head offices in Guayaquil or Quito.

Go with your passport or cedula, be prepared to pay at least a small fee, usually around $5 and you will be able to pick up your package. Having the original tracking number helps but isn´t absolutely necessary.

But careful, if you don´t go to pick it up within a sort time they will send it back to the original home country.

And they will NEVER inform you of any of this.

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Growing palm oil in Ecuador, profitable or not?

“Jeeze, I’ve never seen a road like this,” I thought, this week, as my teeth rattled and face winced along one particularly trying road deep in a palm oil grove. Not only was the road bumpy, but the bushes were scraggly and were impending the vehicles. The track could have had used the services of Fast Tree Removal company.

I was in one of the top places in Ecuador for palm oil growing, La Concordia, a small town tucked deep in the sticks about a half hour from the rough and tumble city of Santo Domingo, Ecuador.

You gotta put your money somewhere.

Keeping it invested in paper US dollars is a well-documented no-no.  Gold may be a better bet, but lets face it, if sh#t really hit the fan, people don’t need it, they need food, they need water.

That’s why one of my next plays will probably be in an agricultural investment, and honestly, its hard to  beat Ecuador for that.

The land is so fertile (and relatively inexpensive).  And farm hands come cheap.

There’s so much water.

Need a specific temperature?  Just find the right altitude in Ecuador, cause its there.

My Ecuadorian friend, and also active palm grower, who I met at a conference I was teaching at this week in La Concordia began to explain…

“Palm Oil is one of the most profitable crops Ecuador has to offer.  At least in this area.”  He started.

Palm Oil is mainly used for cooking, and primarily exported.  The oil is obtained through the fruit this particular variety of palm produces.

palm oil farm ecuador la concordia

The harvest…

Palm oil trees begin to give fruit around year 2, and continue to do so until they are about 25 years old.

Once harvesting begins, you’ll continue to harvest every 20 days for the life of the plant.

One big plus of this product is that it is relatively NOT very labor intensive.  No constant watering is needed.  There is a rainy season, starting in January which then goes for a few months, and that is when the plants receive the water table they need for the year.

The costs…

Most small to medium sized palm farms (20 hectares or less) don’t even have any full time employees, just one live-on watchman.

All farm owners do is hire two guys to come to harvest every 20 days.

One plucks the fruit off the trees with a hook, the other one loads the fruit on the donkeys which take it to the trucks which then take it the nearest factory that proceeds to cook the plant and extract the oil.  They are paid based on output ($15 per harvested ton).

This is another one of those products where no marketing is needed.

You make it, you’ll have a buyer, which is usually the nearest production factory.  As a marketing guy I appreciate that.

The only thing that changes is the market price.  Which for this product doesn’t fluctuate too greatly which usually resides between $150-250 per ton.

Farms start to become particularly profitable when they are at least 20 hectares large.

Each hectare can fit 140 palms.

You can buy the palm trees an inch tall for $1.  Or you can buy them already a year old for around $6.  The best time to plant new palms is in late December or January when the rainy season begins.

You’ll need to invest about $1 in fertilizer per plant twice a year to keep the plants healthy.

You’ll also need to pay a worker $.15 cents per plant to clean the shrub away from around the basin of the plant.  Three times a year.  This comes to about $63 per hectare per year.

You’ll also need to fumigate 2 or 3 times a year which costs around $50 per hectare.

You’ll also need to pay the trucks (considering you dont have one) about $5 per ton for them to haul your product to the processing factories.

“My costs usually run around 20% of my sales in this business.” My friend continued.

Why palm oil?…

One big benefit is that palm is not something that is often stolen, like other crops, due to the weight of the product and also that the factories will not buy stolen product.  They will only accept product with registered tax Id numbers (RUC).

Also, due to the low maintenance and lower risk of robbery, being an absentee owner is more than commonplace, it is the usual.

So no, you don’t have to live there,

Possible sales and profits…

Each hectare of producing Palm can produce on average 2-3 tons of product every 20 days.  The really effcient farms, like a few in Ecuador and many in an experienced Palm oil producing nation like Malaysia, can often produce up to 5 tons of product per hectare.  Each ton sells for the market price which fluctuates around $200… leaving $150 in profit per hectare for the farm owner…

So for a 20 hectare farm that means in the worst case scenario with low market prices ($150/ton) and a farm producing a mere 2 tons per hectare would produce $6000 in monthly sales and leave a profit of around $4000-$4500 a month.

For that same 20 hectare farm at the best case scenario with higher market prices (around $200/ton which the factory pays you the farmer) and a highly efficient farm producing 5 tons per hectare the monthly sales can be as high as $20,000 per month.  With about $13,000-15,000 of that being the estimated profit.

The investment and ROI…

Land ideal for palm growing in the area that is not harvested can be had starting around $3000 per hectare.  But you’d have to wait 2-4 years to start harvesting.  Producing farms with plants in full harvest in the area start to sell for around $5,000-8,000 per hectare.

This week I’ve visited a few 20 hectare sized farms for sale with producing plants for sale in the $6k per hectare range.  So assuming even the low ball figures gathered from friends in the area, that same farm acquired for around $120k could get its money back within 2.5 years.

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1 Costly Mistake when Buying a Business in Ecuador

When I first bought the Guayaquil hotel business with a friend of mine 2 years ago I made this mistake.

And it was costly.

And I see a lot of foreigners who buy in Ecuador do the same thing cause they’re ignorant of Ecuador employment law.

The mistake I made was I didn’t ‘clean house’ and start new with my own employees when I bought the business.I inherited one employee from the past regime who stayed on.  For a while.

I didn’t realize the mistake I made until I had to let him go.You see, in Ecuador when you fire someone, or lay them off, or they leave, you have to “liquidate (liquidar)” them. Meaning you have to pay them a lump sum severance payment equal to 25% of all the money they’ve made while working for you. Constructive dismissal solicitors are referred to if an employer has committed a serious breach of contract, entitling the employee to resign.

For instance, for a minimum wage worker in Ecuador making $318 a month, letting them go after one year of work would mean a mandatory severance payment of about $900.

So what most Ecuadorians do, and what you must do too when buying an active business in Ecuador, unless someone is actually vital to the business, when you buy a business in Ecuador have the previous owner liquidate and get rid of everyone.

It may not feel good, but “negocios son negocios” (business is business).

Because if you keep them on whenever it is they leave you will now have to pay them the liquidation payment for the entire time they have worked for the company, even though the company changed hands, doesn’t matter.  And the employee can sue you if you refuse to pay it.

But the person selling you his business won’t tell you this!

Oh no, he’ll say things like you should keep the employees, they’re great workers and very loyal… yea, yea, yea.  After all, it’s better you liquidate his employees after he’s out of the picture than him now.

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