Sample itineraries for the coast of Ecuador

 

Here you go, my picks for where to go as you plan your next big trip to the Ecuador coast in 2014.

THE SWIMMERS CIRCUIT: Beaches with flat ocean great for swimming, snorkeling, floating.

Fly into Guayaquil, then take the bus to Salinas.  Spend 2 days , 2 nights in Salinas and enjoy the long beach with water perfect for swimming, the expat bars and local seafood cuisine. Then head up the coast 40 minutes to the lazy cove of Ayangue for 2 nights, also known as lobster bay, also great for snorkeling, scuba, swimming and eating from one of the many fresh seafood stands on the beach.  Then head up the coast to Puerto Lopez, another cove with an ocean good for swimming and a more touristy town to boot.  Then take the 2 hour bus to Manta where you can fly out to Quito to catch your flight home.

SURF PARADISE:  The best surf in Ecuador.

Budget permitting, start your surf trek by taking a flight to San Cristobal in the Galapagos and enjoy empty rides on sapphire blue ocean all day long.  Then once back on the mainland from Guayaquil go to Playas and then the town just west of Playas, Engabao.  Then head up the coast 2 hours to Montanita.   Afer experiencing the hustle and bustle of Montanita head up the coast 40 minutes to completely secluded breaks off Ayampe and the more radical Tunas beaches.  From there, head north to Puerto Cayo, and time permitting further north to Canoa and then Mompiche.

PARTY / SINGLE SCENE:  This is where I’d go if I’m single and ready to jingle.

Start by flying into Quito, then after a short stay in Quito Airport Suites (come on, you know I had to plug it somewhere), fly to Esmeraldas.  Once in Esmeraldas go 20 minutes south to the party town of Atacames.  Try to hit the weekends.  Then head south to Canoa for a hippy, low-key, small town party scene, then head to the city of Manta to wine and dine with folks dressed to impress.  Then head south to the energetic Montanita, then on to the more refined Salinas where you can drink with expats and locals from Guayaquil.  Lastly, don’t forget a stop at Ecuadors largest city, and best for singles, musty Guayaquil.

FOLLOW THE SUN: Many beaches in Ecuador are overcast most the year, only a few aren’t.

Fly into Guayaquil and head immediately to one of the sunniest beaches in Ecuador year round, Playas.  Then head to nearby Salinas which also has a lot of sun.  After, head north to Ayangue, a desert cove which I’ve never seen overcast.  From there, you’ll want to buy more sunscreen and head north to San Clemente, another spot legendary for being consistently sunny, then skip oft overcast Canoa and fly home from Manta.

EXTREME SPORTS/ ACTION PACKED:

For thrill seekers, start the trip by trying your luck marlin fishing in Salinas.  You could also rent 4-wheelers and cruise around the point and the famous “whirlpool”.  Then head to nearby Ayangue where there is one of the few places on the coast to charter an organized scuba dive. Then head north to Puerto Rico where you can try your luck spear-fishing.  From there head north to surreal Santa Marianita a kite-surfing paradise.  From there head a an hour north to Crucita where you can soar with the birds off the cliffs of Crucita while hang-gliding.

AWAY FROM IT ALL / OFF THE BEATEN PATH:  For those of us that prefer ocean, not people.

Fly from Quito to Esmeraldas and head north to Las Penas, you’ll proably be the only foreigner around.  From there head south and skip the hustle of Atacames and insteaod opt for the secluded yet more refined Same, or the raw, gorgeous secluded beaches of Muisne, then hop a motorboat to Cojimes.   From there head south to the secluded, unnamed coves north of Jama and finish off your trip in Santa Marianita just south of Manta.   Then fly back to Quito from Manta.

EXPAT ROW:  The hottest expat destinations on the coast to date.

Fly into Guayaquil and b-line for Salinas.  Then head north to Olon, the beach just north of Montanita.  From lush, green Olon, continue to Manta where if you time it right you can hit an expat night-out.  From there head to the fastly-growing expat populations of Crucita and San Clemente.  From there head to Bahia and the Canoa area.  From Canoa catch one of the new highways back to Quito for your flight back to reality.

LUXURY/SHOPPING:  When ‘roughing it’ is not an option.

Start your trip flying in to Esmeraldas and heading straight for the all-inclusive resort near Mompiche.  Afterward head south to the city of Manta, where you can rent a luxury, oceanview, vacation rental or stay in one of the more luxury hotels on the coast like the Howard Johnson or Oro Verde.  From there head to the Barcelo of Salinas to dine away the rest of your trip.

WILDLIFE

Of course any wildlife lover should start their trip to Ecuador with a week in Galapagos.  Once on the mainland beaches go dolphin watching in Playas, or season permitting whale watching in Salinas.  From there head north to the town of Dos Mangas where you can take a nature hike to waterfalls and get chased down by several different types of Monkeys.  From there head to Puerto Lopez where you can take a tour to Isla de la Plata and bird watch.  There you can observe many of the species found on the Galapagos like the blue-footed boobies.

VACANT LAND HUNTERS: A lot of places on the Ecuador coast are already built up or are pricey, others are not.

To start fly into Manta and head south to the areas of Santa Marianita, San Lorenzo and then Puerto Cayo.  This stretch of coast still has some larger vacant lots available at reasonable prices as well as smaller lots as well whereas on the southern coast from Puerto Lopez on south where you’ll find little to no reasonably priced inventory.  Then head north to the area between San Vicente and Canoa to find deals on both larger and smaller beachfront lots.  From there, if you prefer an even bigger, remote lot try north of Canoa on that stretch of coastline all the way to Cojimes and Muisne.

OCEANVIEW CONDO HUNTERS

There’s only a few places to find oceanview condos on the rural coast of Ecuador.  Start in Salinas, then try Manta, Bahia and lastly Tonsupa in the north. That’s it.

21 DAY BEST OF THE BEST: Simply the best beaches, but more of them.  This is where I’d go.
Start by flying into Quito and then on to Esmeraldas where you can work from the top down.  Once in the Esmeraldas area be sure to bunk up in nearby Atacames where you’ll find the best and cheapest hotel options in the area.  While sleeping in Atacames be sure to explore nearby Tonsupa, Sua and Same on Tuk Tuk.  After 3 nights in the area, head south to secluded, way off the beaten path Muisne for the largest beach in Ecuador.  From there check out nearby Mompiche, a true hidden palm-laden paradise.  Then eat a seafood lunch on the malecon of Pedernales as you head south to Canoa.   Base yourself in Canoa for 3 nights as you explore and settle into the area.  From Canoa continue south to Bahia to have lunch and look around before continuing to San Clemente.  Rent a condo or house in San Clemente to experience true small town beach life in Ecuador, from there head to Manta where you can buy any modern conveniences you’ve been without the last 2 weeks before heading out to Santa Marianita a true diamond in the rough.  From Santa Marianita continue south through Puerto Cayo for some of the best oceanviews of the coast.  From Cayo, skip Puerto Lopez and istead opt to sleep in more relaxed and picturesque Ayampe or Puerto Rico to the south.  The waves here will impress you.  From Ayampe go south to Olon and eat shrimp on the beach in between horseback rides on the enormous golden beach popular with expats.  From Olon catch a $1.50 cab south to Montanita, a true surf and party mecca on the Ecuadorian coast.  If anything go just to dine and people watch for a day or two.  If youd like to be near Montanita but not sleep in it, try a rental in the small town next door of Manglaralto.   From Manglaralto, head south to Ayangue if scuba is your thing, if not skip it and continue right on to Salinas, a great low-effort place to finish your journey of the coast.

 

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My 2014 Ecuador bucket list: 48 Must dos off the beaten path

Hard to find such variety in a country the size of Nevada.

Yet most travelers to Ecuador get it wrong by going to lame, overpriced places like the Otavalo market.

Below is my personal Ecuador bucket list for 2014.

Things I just got to do just in case this is my last year in Ecuador (not planning on it but you never know).

1. Relax to the core all day in the hot springs in the high Andes town of Papallacta.  Afterward have a trout lunch.

2. Take a bike tour down the slopes of the Chimborazo, one of the worlds highest active volcanos at 6000 meters.

3. Take a bird watching tour in the world-renowned cloud forests of Mindo with over 400 bird species and get engulfed in thousands of Butterflies at one of the butterfly farms in the area.

4. Have a drink with women about half my age on the infamous cocktail alley of Montanita.

5. Explore the Puyango petrified forest, one of the largest in the Americas along the Peruvian border.

6. See the most remote area of Ecuador, the Yasuni, in the Amazon region before they start their planned drilling, besdies its my best chance to see big Amazonian game like jaguars, anacondas and pumas.  Another less intense option would be to fly to the city of Coca and go in canoe alng the Rio Napo to an  Eco-lodge.

7. Take the train through the high Andes from Ibarra to Salinas (a different Salinas than the one on the coast).

8. Hike arguably the most beautiful area of Ecuador from the Lagunas de Atillo to the largest waterfall in Ecuador, the San Rafael Falls and the Volcano Reventador area.

9. Visit the Saquisili (near Latacunga) thursday market for an interesting more authentic (less touristy) look into indigeous highland life.

10. Go silver bargaining along the main plaza in Chordeleg (near Cuenca) where silversmiths flex their creative muscles.

11. Try hand-gliding for the first time of the cliffs of Crucita or Canoa on the coast.

12. Bike down the entire Ecuador coast from Esmeraldas to Salinas.  Hope I get to do this one.

13. Watch the Tungurahua Volcano erupt at night from the look out over Banos.  Tours can be arranged in one of the many agencies in Baños. Cost $20 per person.

14. Observe the amazing Pink river dolphins as they frollic in the unique flooded rainforest of Cuyabeño in northern Ecuador.  Tours can be arranged once on the ground out of Quito or Lago Agrio.  Anacondas, monkeys and sloths are also possible to be seen.  Canoe Tours start from $40 per person.  

15.  Scuba dive in the crystalline waters of Galapagos off Wolfe Island where its common to see schools of hundreds of Hammerheads and dozens of whale sharks.  2 Dives start from around $130.  Best arranged once on the ground in Santa Cruz Island near the port in Puerto Ayora with local dive shops.

16.  Snorkel with the worlds smallest penguin, gigantic manta rays, big marine iguanas and (friendly) reef sharks off las Tintoreras on the picturesque snow-white sands and turqoise waters off Floreana Island in the Galapagos.  Day tours to Isabela arranged in Santa Cruz start around $65/person.

17.  Eat two buckets of the locally-famous garlic crab at one of the best crabhouses (Manny’s Crangrejal) in Guayaquil, a city known for its numerous crabhouses.  Near San Marino Mall any taxi will know where it is.  $12.

18. Hunt for fossils along the banks of the Nangaritza River, the only river that connects the Amazon to the Pacific Ocean, high in the Condor Mountain Ridge (Cordillera del Condor).  For more try lindoecuadortours.com  $25-50 /person.

19. Deep-sea fish for Marlin and Whale-watch in August off the calm shores of Salinas.  Trips can be arranged in one of the several agencies along the boardwalk.  Cost: Whalewatching from $20 per person, deep sea fishing price varies depending on amount of people.

20. Visit a coffee farm near Ibarra and learn the whole process from harvest to belly.

21.  Hummingbird watch and observe thousands of butterflies in the cloud rainforests of Mindo.  Tours can be arranged once in Mindo. Start from $20/person.

22. Trout fish in one of the surreal apline lakes in the barren Cajas National Park near Cuenca.  Tours can be arranged with Terra Diversa in Cuenca.

23. Go way off the beaten path and discover the Lost City (Ciudad Perdida) of Ecuador’s Amazon.  Extreme adventure available through local guides only out of Nangaritza.  Cost: Highly negotiable.

24. Pamper myself with a the natural mud bath in the mud pools in the dry rainforest of Machalilla National Park and spend the night playing volleyball with the local indigenous and later sleeping in one of their tiki huts.  From Puerto Lopez hire a motorcycle taxi and pay a few bucks from them to take you to the indigenous community of Aguas Blancas in the park.  Cost: $10 for the day tour to the mud baths and $10/person for the night.

25. View thousands of Orchid species and hummingbirds along the well-kept trails of the Podocarpus National Park easily reached in a $4 taxi ride from the town of Zamora.  Free entrance to park.

26Get a taste of ancient Incan life by hiking the 10km trek from El Tambo to Ingapirca, ancient Incan ruins and effectively Ecuador’s own “Machu Picchu”.  You can also take a train, taxi or bus which can be arranged out of Canar.  Ruins Entrance fee $6.

27. Get certified as a glider plane pilot in Ibarra through a one month course with a local flight instructor.  They say if you can fly a plane without an engine you can fly a plane with one.  Course starts around $1300. 2013 prices yet to be released.

28.Learn to kite surf with an instructor against the strangly barren cliff landscapes of Santa Marianita near Manta.  Classes can be arranged on site.  Prices vary.

29. Zip-line through a Banana plantation in Machala and learn all the ins and outs of the interesting business with CristyViajes.  Tours start around $20 per person.

30. Fish for Pirana in Laguna Pañacocha, a beautiful black wáter lake backed by cloud forests.  To get there, hire a local canoe where the Rio Panacayu meets the Rio Napo, to get there you’ll need to take a Nuevo Rocafuerte Canoe hired in the town of Coca.  Price varies depending on season.

31. Soak in the odd street water-wars during Carnaval in February in Cuenca where everyone goes around throwing water balloons and soaking random strangers with water guns.  Free.

32. Hike the Quillotoa Volcano and witness the majestic, stunning turquoise-colored lake in the volcano’s crater.  Can be done solo by taking a bus from Latacunga and getting off near the base.  Cost: $4 bus fare from Latacunga.

33. Mingle with sexy locals dressed to the tilt during the 2 hour river-boat cruise on the all-you-can-drink boat ‘Morgans’ which leaves every night from the boardwalk (Malecon) of Guayaquil. $15 per person includes all you can drink.

34. White-water raft and try kayaking for the first time in the lazy to fierce rivers around the city of Tena where the activities have made the town famous.

35. Explore the rarely-visited beaches north of Esmeraldas while at night dancing salsa to afro-latino beats after eating the local delicacy of Shrimp cooked in spiced coconut milk (encocado de camaron).  I’m sure I’ll feel like I’m in the Caribbean.  Cost: $5-6.

36. Visit the perplexing, friendly afro-ecuadorian community of Chota in the middle of the Andes near Otavalo and have a local Shaman (witch doctor) cleanse away my worries.  Cost: $5 bus fare from Quito.

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Sold! How I sold my beach lot in Ecuador. Part 10 Property search series

 
I know what you’re thinking.

Where’s part 1-9 of this series?

Well, they were released about this time last year and tell the story from step one of how I found an undervalued beachfront lot near Salinas, Ecuador, legalized and resold it.

Well, about a year later, it’s now sold.

First, the specifics… 

In October of 2012 I bought a 500m2 lot right on the beach in a small fishing village 30 minutes south of Salinas near the town of Chanduy for $4000.   The lot was cheap for a number of reasons, the lot was located in a rather impoverished, completely undiscovered area of the coast, the papers of the lot were out of date and needed to be legalized (or attained for the first time), and the previous owner didn’t know much about marketing and sales.  The lot took about one month to legalize and cost around $500.  (No lawyer fees except for the notary.)

Then, in November of 2013, after negotiating I came to an agreement to sell the lot and sold it for $8000, a price where I still made money and the buyer still got a great deal (even for Ecuador) on a front-line beachfront lot.

How I sold it?

Due to time constraints and other priorities, I didn’t spend much time or money marketing it, all I did was post it on my own blog ecuadorealestate.org as well as on viviun.com .  Nothing else!  I didn’t list it in Spanish, or in the local paper (like I planned), or with any real estate agents.  Then I left it be.  And after a lot longer than I thought I had a buyer, a year later.

What I learned from the experience?

– That contrary to popular belief in Ecuador it is possible to take publicly owned “communal” land and privatize it and legally deed and register it in the notary, municipal and property registrar just like any other privately-owned property if you get some knowledge on your side.  But it can be a process and is a bit risky cause you never know.

– That if you buy property in an undiscovered, out-of-the-way location it is NOT a short-term play and will take you a lot longer to turn than you thought, even if the property is nice and right on the ocean (ideal).

– That the quality of the beach and proximity to a legit city with shopping and other services is important.

– That it will be a harder sell if NO other foreigners are in the area.

– That simply being beachfront is not quite enough to ask what other beachfront lots in more discovered, developed places on the coast are asking ($80-$100 per m2) .  If I would have got that I would have sold for around $40-50,000!  I started by asking $20k then I lowered to $16k but I didn’t start seeing any real interest until I lowered the asking price after several months to $12k.  Albeit I didn’t do a whole lot of marketing.

– That stating publicly on my blog how much I paid for the lot doesn’t help to sell it for a profit (duh).

– That using an agent probably would have been a good idea, it’s just that I had a bad experience with an agent previously.

– That there are a lot of areas on the Ecuador coast that are actually pretty stagnant while other areas are moving quickly.  Best find the areas moving quickly (which Ill cover on future newsletters).  For instance, this lot had a ‘for sale’ sign when I bought it that had been there 6 years!

– Not to waste time with all the (dozens) of tire-kickers online, the person who is actually going to buy your lot is probably someone already in Ecuador beit foreiger or local.
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The forgotten beach party town in Ecuador

Even if you don’t like to party, party towns are good places to base yourself as you explore the nearby areas of the Ecuador coast. Even if you merely take a limo service from Sacramento to Napa Valley, you can get to enjoy a ton of things along the way.

The places to eat.

A larger variety of places to stay at a much lower average cost.

It’s easier to meet more people.

And you have access to services that you wouldn’t have in more remote locations, like laundry, internet, organized activities, etc.

Everyday I ask other foreigners where they plan to travel on the coast of Ecuador.

And they always tell me the same damn thing, “Salinas, Montanita, Manta, Canoa”.

Yet theres one popular party town on the coast that is completely overlooked by foreigners.

Atacames.

For me, Atacames arguably has the nicest beach of all the locations mentioned above.

It certainly has one of the widest beaches of the country, and one of the few white sand beaches lined with coconut palms in Ecuador.

Beaches with good surf are nearby.

And beaches that are coves with flat water great for swimming are just a short Tuk Tuk ride away (in neighboring Sua).

Plus, when the other beaches mentioned above are likely overcast, you can usually count on Atacames to have sun.

Nightlife. Check, Ecuadorians know how to party, trust me on that one.

Accommodations. Cheap and plentiful with budget places starting around $10 per person and the nicer places around $20 per person.

Food. You bet. Each region of the Ecuadorian coast has their own unique blend of seafood gastronomy. But the north coast has the best cuisine out there! Try the seafood in coconut curry (encocados) or the seafood in nut based curry (cazuela) and you won’t be dissappointed!

Foreigners. Almost none to date yet the area has been popular with Ecuadorian tourists for weekend getaways (particularly from Quito) for decades.

Airport/Hospitals. Yes and yes. Atacames is one of the few beaches within just 20 minutes or so from an airport reachable by commercial flights (Esmeraldas). Plus, being just 15 minutes or so from Esmeraldas there are plentiful private health clinics and free public hospitals available.

Safety. This has been the knock on Atacames as most folks think its too close to Colombia for comfort, but actually its still several hours from the border (like a place called Quito), and with the added police force I believe safety has improved greatly over recent years.

The locals. Different from the rest of the Ecuador coast, the locals are mulatos by ancestry. And by far the friendliest and best looking people on the Ecuador coast.

Real Estate. Cheap! The best deal I see this week in the area is a finished and FURNISHED 20 room, 20 bathroom hotel one block from the beach right in the center of town built just 8 years ago complete with reception, oceanview terrace, and cistern asking $170,000 negotiable.

But the owner sounded like he’d go down even lower, I’d try for around $150,000. Its possible, and it would be a steal.

Im a hotelier myself, and I can tell you, to furnish a 20 room place (well) you’re looking at easily $45,000. And depending on the state of the building (which looks good in the photos) at this price it could pay for itself in 2 years if you market it right.

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Property holding costs in Ecuador: Not what you’d expect

I get it all the time…

“Well nowadays I can also buy a $40,000 property in Waco, Texas, what’the big deal about Ecuador?”

OK, well, one thing is the holding costs.

Lets take a look at my 4 bedroom, 3 bath house on the coast near Montanita. I currently rent it out.

I pay…

$0 for insurance (with so much concrete construction home insurance is not common). Although I should say I still remember that terrible fire. I shudder to think of what would have had transpired if it weren’t for the Tallahassee Fire Watch Guards. Passive Fire Protection it isn’t just getting fire extinguishers logically placed in any development, is not the full answer to fire safety. You can check here for more about the fire protection for critical infrastructure. Ask yourself are you aware exactly where your extinguisher can be found, and also would you know how to make use of it, additionally, on what sort of fire? The answer then is probably no, the actual extinguisher can help suppress a little fire, nevertheless without in-built fire protection in the fabric of the structure, the potential risks of containing a fire as well as avoiding it being a flaming inferno may drastically increase. If you’ve decided to invest in radiant barrier as a means to help boost your energy-saving techniques at home, then you probably already know many of its features from your research. But did you know that while many radiant barrier products may appear the same on the outside, the raw materials and features can actually vary? So called ‘fire protection’ is effectively insulation of the mezzanine floor steelwork to prevent it from heating up quickly in a fire. Unprotected steelwork heats up quickly and can suddenly collapse. Fire protection is specified for a certain period of time such as ‘half hour’, ‘1 hour’, ‘2 hour’ or ‘4 hour’. The time period refers to the time that the protected elements remain structurally sound in the event of a fire. The fire protection required for different parts of buildings is specified within the Building Regulations part B.You can have class A,B,C fire extinguisher at  mrfireextinguisher which can be more effective for resisting fire and protecting us.

The requirement for fire protection depends upon the use, size and extent of the mezzanine floor. Mezzanine flooring that is less than 10m x 10m in size, and occupying less than 50% of the area of the building in which it is located and which is not permanently occupied and infrequently accessed (used for storage) does not need to be fire rated. The most common means of fire protecting mezzanine floors is through the use of four key elements of insulation, column casings, a suspended ceiling, bulkheads/fascias and cavity barriers. This means of fire protecting mezzanine floors is used because of its speed of installation and low cost. Column casings comprise a two part sheet metal case lined with ‘Promalit’ or similar board bonded to the inside of the casing. The sheet metal case usually has a galvanized or white ‘plastisol’ finish to suit the application, but can be stainless steel or coloured ‘plastisol’, and the two parts have an unobtrusive locking seam enabling them to be quickly and neatly fitted with a few taps from a rubber mallet. Suspended ceilings comprise wires hung vertically on clips from the secondary beams of the mezzanine supporting length of ceiling runner. The runners clip together and are joined in turn by intermediate lengths of ceiling runner to create a ceiling grid. Minaboard tiles are then inserted to fill the grid. The grid is commonly and most economically based around 1200mm x 600mm ceiling tiles, however by adding further intermediate 600mm ceiling runners, 600mm x 600mm tiles can be used. The tiles fitted must be certificated to provide the necessary level of fire protection when used in the grid under a mezzanine floor. This restricts the available choice of tiles and finishes.

If you were impacted by the Woolsey fire, you will remember to insure your property.
$0 for condo or association fees (not in gated community)
$102 a year in property taxes
$7 electric bill last month (with one single person living on the property full time.)
$4 water bill last month
$2.50 gas (bought one tank of gas, this is also subsidized by the government)

Now lets compare this to a 2 bedroom condo in my home state of Montana, USA currently valued around $180,000…

$1200 annual property taxes
$583 every 3 months association fees.
electricity $80 a month (varies)
water $125 every 3 months
$180 annual insurance
gas $250 (varies)

How about a 2 bedroom house in Montana valued around $350-400k…

$3400 annual property taxes
$1200 annual homeowners insurance
$0 association fees (not in gated community)
electricity/gas $300 a month in winter
$25/month garbage collection that also included a wide range of skip bins offered by the service

Now, lets throw in the extra cost of my Ecuador ‘property management’ because I do not live nearby (I live in Quito) and I rent it out short term as a vacation rental.

$20 a month to caretaker who visits property twice a week and lets me know if there are any problems, waters grass once a week and takes out the garbage.
$5 each time the caretaker has to go and turn in key or recover key from an entering or exiting guest.
$10 for each cleaning between guests.

The caretaker also is in charge for paying the energy bills, and does NOT live on the property. All guests prepay online, I do all the marketing myself.

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